We walked right out the front door of Mercedes’ home, took a right past the clothes line and vegetable garden and intersected the Camino as it followed the train tracks.
Mercedes is on the right and her sister whose name I can’t remember left. Below they are in the country house kitchen.(more…)
The talk around the Peregrino table last night was who’s taking a taxi to the edge of Leon and who’s walking the whole way out of town. Walking through city streets is not our favorite thing to do, but Donna and I decided not to skip seeing the rest of the city.
Look what we would have missed if we took the taxi! Behind the Basilica we found this K marker. Our Camino from Burgos is 500K, so in the next day or so we should hit our half-way mark.(more…)
3 responses to “Day 11: Leon to Mazarife (Sort Of)”
This says it all. We did set an alarm, however. We wanted to be sure we didn’t miss breakfast, which was served until 10:30 a.m. I am proud to announce that Donna and I both woke naturally in time to make it down to breakfast.(more…)
We were excited to be heading to Leon, which is the last big city on the Camino. We have a day off planned for Day 10, Sept. 19, so we were also looking forward to sleeping in and giving our feet and backs a rest.
Walking along the road—again—we looked back to say good bye to the Meseta.(more…)
We realized as we were close to walking into our last night before the big city of Leon that neither one of us had taken many pictures. It was pretty much the same as the last few days on the Meseta. Crops, tree lined path along the road (for which are always grateful—shade).
Here we are with our morning selfie, happy to have such lush foliage of a tree shading our path. Hence no hat or sun glasses.(more…)
One response to “Day 8: Burgos de Ranero to Mansilla de las Mullas”
Cheryl Stahl
You gals rock! I love reading your daily blog and look forward to hearing about each day’s adventures. Love seeing the pictures. I’m so envious of the courage you both have to take on such an endeavor. God bless you as you continue your camino!
We leave Sahagún, passing the grand arch that was not the passageway through which we entered the city. Turns out that this city is the half-way point along the Camino Frances, IF you started in St. Jean Pie de Port. We did not start there. But the arch is pretty cool.(more…)
4 responses to “Day 7: Sahagún to El Burgos Ranero”
John Langhans
The photos and comments are great. Keep them coming.
We got an early (for us) start hoping to arrive at our destination by 4 p.m. which was when rain was predicted to start there. It had rained during the night, so the predicted 8 a.m. bout didn’t materialize as we walked out the door of our hostel.
A hostel, by the way that proved you can’t judge a book by its cover. When we arrived there yesterday, we looked at each other and said, “Really?”
The rooms, thankfully, were in the white part of the building. (more…)
5 responses to “Day 6: Calzadilla de la Cueza to Sahagún”
DJZ
Henry Higgins and Eliza Doolittle would be proud of you … well done!
What an amazing trip so far Terri!! Love seeing the sites, the landscape and the people you are meeting are a true joy I’m sure. Thank you for helping us feel as though we are a part of this special trip and continued enjoyment to you both!!!
Yikes! At least our rains were walking through thin stand of trees, so it provide a little shelter, but mostly, I bought gators to cover tops of my feet and ankles. I wore them every day! Kept out rain and mud when wet, and those pesky pebbles when dry!!! Chicas, it makes for better stories, and some hysterical giggles, que no?
OK, now we know why some people choose to bike or even skip the Meseta. I’m glad we didn’t, but it is, indeed, a long, hot stretch of nothing but crops, dust and flies. I am a big believer in the notion that you find what you’re looking for, so Donna and I made a point of looking for things that we could be grateful for.
Our walking notes warned us that this 20K section would be a straight shot along a highway, through vast fields of cut hay and dying sunflowers. Actually, the notes only mentioned the distance, the highway and “crops.” We would pass through three tiny villages called Campos de [Spanish word], and that would pretty much be the only break from crops and crops and highway.
I made a decision today, Sept. 12, 2019, aka Day 3 on the Camino. It was our longest day so far (big deal, we’ve been walking three days): 25km [15 miles]. We didn’t get to our lodging until 5:30 p.m. and I was frustrated because I had looked forward to having some down time between shower and dinner to write. Specifically, to write this blog. I was already a day behind, and I really wanted to post every day.
Wait just a dang minute. Sounds like stress to me. Felt like stress to me. Layer that on top of aching limbs, flaming feet, a drippy, sweaty face and still several miles to go before I’d see a rooftop, let alone the reception desk of our lodging—that’s when I made my decision.
That is a lovely idea to write when it works! Just don’t forget the details if you wait 30 days! I would like to request a picture of the place where you place my shell when you say a prayer for me. I think I put in a request for that before you left, but if I didn’t, Im putting one in now. Not enough shells? Take a pic of someone elses as I will never know the difference. With you in spirit!
Good pictures! I am having computer problems and have not been able to do the story but I have notified them and will get it fixed in the next few days.
Mom is
Starting our Camino on my birthday, Sept. 10, 2019 was special, but purely accidental. When Donna and I planned the trip we looked at our calendars and worked backwards more than forwards. I remember saying at one point, “Oh, cool. Our first day of walking will be my birthday.” ‘Nuf said about that.
And then, this morning, we made our way to the breakfast buffet at our hotel in Burgos, gathered our favorite source of caffeine and food stuffs, then sat down at a table in the hotel’s dining room.
Plop.
Donna puts a stack of envelopes and folded papers next to my plate. Birthday cards. I gulp, choke and almost sob an itty bit. This took advance planning and a decent amount of schlepping on Donna’s part.
Cards, artwork and best wishes from my family far across the sea made the start of my Camino—and birthday—the best ever.
You see, my mother spoiled me when it comes to birthdays. From as early as I can remember, the first words I would hear on my birthday were from her lips, “Happy Birthday!” She might have been waking me for school (in fourth grade my birthday was actually on the first day of school) or I could have been walking into the kitchen in search of a cup of tea on my way out the door to Cal State Long Beach.
This year, my 64th trip around the sun, this birthday is an exciting way to begin a new adventure in oh, so many ways.
We Begin
Each day, or at least each day last time on the Portuguese Camino, Donna and I would take a morning selfie. Today, we handed the camera to the receptionist at the hotel.
Ready to walk out the door, ready for projected rain, and yes, we bought the same raincoats.
Yesterday we found the Camino markers in the road outside our hotel and decided to take before and first day photos.
Terri, your writing is incredible. I felt like I was running for that train right along with you gals. And, Donna knows I’m a picture fanatic, so keep ’em coming. Stay safe.
Hey great! Now I can post. Done days I will encourage, other days I will give you crap. That’s just how we roll my blah friend.
I’ve read every word right before I turn out my bedside lamp. I end with a prayer of good walking and safe travels. My favorite pictures are the ones you take of what you see along the way like the sun flowers.
I know you’ve had MANY wonderful birthday celebrations, but thinking it might be tough to top “64” (kudos to the BEST “BFF”!). Beautiful pics, beautiful words and beautiful girls-thanks for sharing this special trip with all of us, and can’t wait to hear all the stories you don’t have time to tell upon your return! Have a safe and blessed journey.
We were ahead of schedule. Alarm at 6 a.m. Check. Throw on the clothes we laid out the night before, call the bellman to bring down the luggage. Check. He arrived at 6:30 a.m. and asked if we needed a taxi. Yes, please.
We checked out 6:40 a.m. and were in the cab with time to spare for the 8 a.m. train departing Madrid’s Chamartin station.
At 7:10 a.m. we hop out of the cab, open the hatch, and I gasp. “Donde esta nuestra equipaje?” [Where is our luggage?]
“What luggage?” he said in Spanish. “Soloa mano.” [Only by hand, referring to our large purses.]
I managed to explain in Spanish that we needed to return to the hotel for our luggage, and did he think we would still have time to return and catch the 8 a.m. train. This was not the context in which I wanted to practice my Spanish, but I was grateful for every Pimsler lesson I listened to at that moment.
Happy Birthday, Terri! Your luggage/train story had me on the edge of my seat! What a way to start. Hope the rest of the trip is smoother. Happy trails!
What an adventure! You’ve got this with everything turning out well! We loved Burgos also when we were there traveling before Scott and Clara’s reception.
Happy birthday, Terri!
We landed in Madrid Saturday night, dropped our luggage off at the hotel and started walking through City Centre. We were on a mission for tapas and sangria.
San Miguel Market is the place to be on Saturday night. Iberian ham, seafood, sangria, cervezas, chocolate, fresh fruit and pimientos Padron (aka shishito peppers) are just the beginning.
The San Miguel Market, located behind Plaza Mayor, was the perfect spot. Something for everyone, including Padron peppers, which Donna and I discovered in Galicia on our previous Camino via the Portuguese coastal route.
Yummy, yummy, happy tummy with sangria and padron peppers. Mission accomplished.
One full day is not enough
Sunday morning we wanted to cover as much of the city as possible, given we only had this one full day to do so. (We leave Monday, Sept. 9 for Burgos at 8 a.m. via train.)
In May of 2017, my friend Donna Halker and I walked about 180 miles of the Camino de Santiago Portuguese Coastal Route. We had planned on walking the Camino Francigena from Luca to Rome, Italy, in 2018, but my breast cancer diagnosis, surgery, chemo and reconstruction surgeries got in the way. As in no way.
CaminoWays.com was understanding and generous. They applied our deposit to a 2019 trip, which we decided would be the “real” Camino, aka The French Way. Except for the Pyrenees. We’re going to skip that part and start our 300-mile trek across Northern Spain in Burgos, aka the beginning of the Meseta. I know. A lot of people hate the Meseta for a boatload of reasons that include it’s hot, boring and flat. I’ve heard that some Pilgrims actually bike the section between Burgos and Leon.
Nope. Not Donna and I. Meseta means plateau in Spanish, and we think that’s a peachy way to kick off 22 days of walking. We’ll each be carrying a daypack that weighs about 10 pounds or so, or at least they did in “rehearsal.” Daypack is the operative word in the preceding sentence. Camino Ways has made arrangements to move a suitcase from lodging to lodging. They also have made room reservations for us each and every night.
2 responses to “Camino de Santiago, Here We Come Again, From a Different Angle”
Patricia A Stoner
You two are just too much!!! I love you both and will be waiting each day for some communication from you. Terri, I promise to to keep up my little life history while you are gone and I think you will be able to get them as you continue your current adventure.
Mom
We left early (7:30 am for us) and arrived in the square around 10 a.m. Short walking day. High emotions.
We were happy. We were in awe of the energy. We were grateful and prayerful.
Here are some pix from our last day.
We left our lodging in Teo before the other pilgrims were up and moving. (Breakfast was supposed to be served at 8, but we asked for 7 am so that we get get going early.)
I see that my last post was Day 7. Egad. A week has gone by? I’ve been posting on Facebook…snippets and photos that help me remember what happened when. Today is Day 14, Sunday, June 4.
Here comes the ramble.
Day 7 we walked into Baiona and wondered if we had made a mistake in designating our day off in the next city, Vigo. The blessing of Baiona was that the hotel had a jacuzzi, and gluten-free muffins in the morning.
Ready for the jacuzzi, which we had to reserve in advance.
The fort at Baiona was well guarded. We posed before donning our backpacks for the day.
What is it? We wondered and wondered. Almost every home in so many villages we passed had one. Eventually I asked a local woman, “Que es eso?” She rattled off something in Spanish, and I asked her to slow down. In Spanish, I asked, “Is to honor God?” “Ha! No!” She laughed. Turns out it’s for storing corn. As in a corn crib!
As we were walking to Vigo, we discovered that we had hit a major Camino milestone. In order to receive your Compostella, you must walk at least 100K and prove it by getting two stamps a day on your pilgrim’s passport along the way. At this point, we had already walked more than 100K, but it’s the last 100K that count!
Winner of the best scarecrow EVER.
Jules Verne, 20 Leagues Under the Sea, lived and wrote in Vigo.
Our Day Off Morning Selfie with Jules.
Vigo is a huge city. Reminded us of Paris, New York, but on the sea. We hiked and climbed (yes, on our day off) to the top of a park that gave us an amazing view of the islands off Vigo (and visible from Baiona) and up the river that empties into the bay.
Leaving Vigo, Day 10, we were also leaving the Coastal Route. We were headed to Redondella, inland, where intersect the main Portuguese Route to Santiago (Central route).
Our selfie on the way to Redondela. Graffiti saved by the Camino arrow.
Snack time in the forest, by a waterfall, in the shade. Perfect.
Wifi is fading, and photo loading is frustrating, so I will have to say adios for now.
Tomorrow morning, Monday, June 5, we will walk a short 12K into Santiago. There is anticipated joy, and a sadness at the same time. Each day has had its physical and mental challenges. Yet the simplicity of waking each morning know that the only thing on your To Do list is to walk–well, there is peace in that alone.
When we booked our Camino we had the option of splitting up a long day into two segments. Day 6 and 7 were such days. Instead of walking from Aguarda to Baiona, we stopped in Oia. This means that our Day 7 to Baiona was a reasonable 13 miles instead of a very long 20+ mile day the day before.
Thank goodness we did. We followed the coast for some time, but then it was mountain crossing again, and I would have not liked to be doing those crossings at the end of a day instead of in the middle of one.
As we left the coast to cross a major highway, up into the hills, we noticed a lone young man hanging out by the crosswalk. He said Hello and then walked the rest of the way into Baiona with us.
His name is Ho, from China, and he was finishing his Master’s degree in Management at a University in Lisbon. He decided to come up to Porto and spend a week on the Camino before returning to China.
His English was excellent, and we had wonderful conversations about the U.S. and his world in China.
My favorite moment: As Donna and I were resting a bit before a steep climb, we took swigs of water from our respective Camelback water bladders inside our backpacks.
“Is that oxygen you’re taking!?” Ho asked, obviously worried.
We laughed and told him it was water. He must have thought we were little old ladies.
We arrived in Baiona before the pouring rain and said our farewells to Ho. He wanted to walk an hour more. We were too embarrassed to tell him that our hotel (not hostel) was off the route and waiting for us.
Here are some pix.
We start every day with a selfie of some kind to mark the beginning of a new day. On this day we met some locals who happily snapped our Sunday morning shot with a field of flowers and the sea as background.
Ho threw on some sneakers, his Dickies long pants, his University book bag as a backpack and headed out. He carried odds and ends in his baseball cap, and collect trash along the way.
Up, up, up we go after our gulp of water/oxygen.
Sometimes the yellow arrows come with emphasis.
Caballo on the Camino!
Hasta Luego Ho!
Hello hotel! And rain, in Spain, but not on the plain!
Thank you for your patience. I write this on Day 10, but will catch up when I can. I am already excited about writing more when I get home and can share more thoughts and insights.
From a converted convent in Aguarda, Spain we walked along the coast for most of the day–cutting a long segment of 31 kilometers in half. Yes, it rained, but after what we are now calling Hell Day of 92 degrees, we welcome the rain and clouds over extreme heat and heights.
From our “balcony” at the convent hotel, we aired our shoes and socks. The scallop shell on my pack is the symbol that we are “peregrines” (pilgrims) on the way to Santiago. The silver chain you see was hand made by Donna as our version of a rosary to remind us to pray for friends and family along the way.
The coastal route is special because we get to be on rugged coastline, quaint hillside villages (cobblestones, ugh), and forest, usually in one day. We do have to spend time along the roads now and then–our least favorite environment. Loud, a bit more nerve racking and despite the smooth walking surface, it definitely changes the mood. (more…)
One response to “Day 6: Easy Peasey 17K Camino de Santiago Portuguese Coastal Route”
Pat Stoner
Looks like you are having a great time. You two are really amazing to take this kind of trip on. Sorry I missed your call.
We started Day 4 right on the coast in Viana de Costello, Portugal. Unlike the other mornings, our lodging was right on the Camino. That means you don’t spend X amount of time or–more importantly–mucho kilometers getting to the day’s starting point. Our walking notes start with 0 (zero) K, which today meant, right out the front door.
Within 20 minutes we were giddy. THUNDER. Then lightening. We’d been carrying our rain gear the last 3 days, and when we could see and hear the splats of the raindrops, we huddled next to a high stone wall and under some vines to don our rain gear.
Sooo much better than yesterday’s 92 degree steep accents and decent…on cobblestones.
In our matching Olivia Pope rain gear we, too, can laugh at the rain.
We hiked through neighborhoods cut into the mountain, narrow paths framed by high stone walls covered in moss, and dense wet forest. Because the cobblestones engage muscles I never knew I had, I found immense joy when even the shortest section of the path involved a semi-consistent surface. Like asphalt. (more…)
One response to “Day 4 Camino Portuguese Coastal Route: Rain, Rain and Still a Great Day”
Marde
You go girls! Certainly glad you took he “spamino” version (although it’s not sounding all that “spa-ish”, now that I think about it!) Congrats on tackling what sounds like quite the adventure (and you haven’t scared us away yet from trying it some day-great recounts!). Can’t wait to hear ALL about it “in person” upon your return…xox Marde
P.S. I think you both represent the HEIGHT of fashion…great pics!
After three days of walking the Camino de Santiago Portuguese Coastal Route (32, 28 and 28K) I must default to letting pictures be worth more words than I have the energy to write. (Donna’s FitBit records flights of stairs and today we climbed 92 flights.)
It. Is. Hard.
It. Is. Demanding.
It. Is. Beautiful.
Our walking notes for today used the word “steep” way too many times. I thought I had mentally prepared, and, in fact, Donna and I both enjoyed the trek over two mountains, through villages, in forests, along a gorge and roaring river. (more…)
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