Day 13: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino (Sunday, Sept. 22)

Uphill and Into a Head Wind ALL DAY LONG

When we left our hotel in Astorga it was 47 degrees Fahrenheit. No rain, but brisk. We knew we had a steady uphill walk from our walking notes, and for a while looked forward to generating some body heat.

Except for the wind. Blowing right in our faces the whole way. Uphill.

This is the “trip tick” we check every day to get an idea of how flat, up and down, mostly up or mostly down our walk will be. The walking notes said that today we would be making our way gradually [emphasis mine] up the foothills of the Leon Mountains. This picture makes it look like a stroll. It. Was. Not.

A Tale of Two Treks

Donna and I both liked the change of scenery that included oak tree and conifer plantations. We had truly left the Meseta behind and were looking forward to the new scene.

From our first little pit stop in the village indicated on the map by the first vertical line, I started feeling “off.” I couldn’t catch my breath, I was dizzy and wobbly. And our climb had barely begun.

Donna loves window boxes with geraniums, so she adored the first village we made a pit stop in.
Donna and I decided to just take our time, slow down and let people pass at will. And yes, drink more water!
We knew that after this town, there would be “no services” for the remaining 11K. We ate a good lunch, and headed out for a steady uphill trek.
We were grateful for trees that provided a degree of wind protection. The trail was edged by a fence, and at first we thought twigs had been blown into the wires. No, they were crosses woven in on purpose by Pilgrims. They went on and on. Easily a thousand crosses of all shapes and sizes. (Below)
If there’s no crying in baseball, I told Donna, then there’s no complaining on the Camino. Not on this part of the trail anyway!
Cute room. Crashed Terri.

Tomorrow (Monday) is supposed to be a shorter day for us, 17K instead of the 20-23 we’ve been averaging. Here’s the elevation “trip tick.”

Spoiler Alert: One of the most beautiful, challenging and dangerous days so far.

2 Replies to “Day 13: Astorga to Rabanal del Camino (Sunday, Sept. 22)”

  1. beautiful. And just before the fence with the wooden branches woven into crosses, did you happen upon the man in armor with his falcon? For 1 Euro, you can get his stamp and pose with the falcon!
    Keep up the awesome work, Chicas! Buen Camino!
    Lorraine

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